Another take on Just Patterns Stephanie Skirt

Dear readers,

 

I’m slowly climbing out of the overwhelmed single working mom hole although I have to acknowledge that I may fall right back into it at any time. Life has a thing for intently proving me wrong every time I start feeling like things are under control. But before that happens, I’m trying to get as much sewing and photographing done!

The skirt I am showing you today has been on my mind since November, I had just finished a grey wool and cashmere version of our Just Patterns Stephanie Skirt because I thought it would come in handy for the New York winter and then learned I would be relocating to Haiti within weeks. So in the midst of selling all my belongings, packing my things and my baby, I, of course, started thinking about new wardrobe options! I went on a last shopping spree at Mood, before leaving because fabric shopping in Port-au-Prince is limited. I wanted to find a cotton lace or Guipure that would enable an scalloped hem and some transparency, and I had an immediate crush on this particular fabric!

Just Patterns Lace Stephanie Skirt by Sewing Tidbits-1Just Patterns Lace Stephanie Skirt by Sewing TidbitsJust Patterns Lace Stephanie Skirt by Sewing Tidbits-3Just Patterns Lace Stephanie Skirt by Sewing Tidbits-4

Pattern


Pattern – Just Patterns Stephanie Skirt
Size – 34

I didn’t do any change to the pattern, except lengthening it by 3 inches for the lace layer and shortening the poplin underlining so that it’s a total 12″ long. I really wanted for the sheerness of the lace to show, so I kept the underlining as wanted the underlining to be as short as possible. One thing I would do differently in working with this kind of fabric would be to add wider seam allowances than just 1/2″ as it can get tricky for the “holes” part of the lace.

Just Patterns Lace Stephanie Skirt by Sewing TidbitsJust Patterns Lace Stephanie Skirt by Sewing Tidbits-7

Making

 


Fabric Lace and cotton poplin are both from Mood Fabrics in NYC
Notions The invisible zipper and hooks and eyes are from the stash.

The poplin is serged all around the edges of the lace. Although I am usually not a fan of overlocked edges, for this particular fabric it provides some needed stability the the seam allowances. Treating the poplin as an underlining rather than a lining also has the benefit of hiding the pocket bags. To create the scalloped hem, I carefully cut around the flower shapes, trying to respect the flare. Unlike some pleated skirt patterns or tutorials you sometimes find, the hem is curved because the pleats were added to a flared skirt and not to a rectangle.

 

What I like about this pattern (and I’m biased of course ;-)) and this particular combination with the lace is the wow effect of a relatively simple project otherwise. I’ve been thinking a lot these days about what constitutes “good sewing”, as in garments that you will enjoy wearing for the years to come. I hope to reflect and write more on this but I believe that it’s a combination of sewing things that reflect your “personal style” (although I’m getting a bit drained by all the content generated around this), good fit and good construction.

To improve our sewing skills, we automatically think about tackling more complex projects and the results can be less than great since we become overwhelmed and lack the practice. On the other hand, when tackling a less involved project, we are tempted not to dedicate as much time (in terms of seam finishes, unpicking and perfecting the topstitching, etc.) because “it’s just an everyday item”. So I decided to force myself to slow down as much as possible and try to do my best work for every garment so that my clothes stand the test of time!

Sewing Tidbits Ulyana Sergeenko Lace skirtSewing Tidbits Ulyana Sergeenko lace skirt

The finished garment is very close to the one I had in mind so I’m very happy with the result! As you can see I played with two different styling options for the pictures. The first one with flats is a realistic version of how I wear it to the office and the second is my attempt to recreate a look worn by Ulyana Sergeenko as entry in the Pattern Review Bargainista Fashionista contest. I didn’t aim to recreate the skirt as exactly as possible but rather to transpose the feel of it into something I could wear in my everyday life. This contest has been happening for several years on Pattern Review and it’s my favorite one to enter, since copying RTW I couldn’t afford is the very reason why I started sewing. [EDIT: Unfortunately due to my terrible internet connection in Haiti, my entry did not make the deadline :-(]

Although I have been a member of Pattern Review for the last 13 years (!!), I don’t enter many contests except this one. I also have the feeling that sewing contests are not as popular as they once were. I could be only an impression though and it would be very interesting if PatternReview looked at the number of contestants over the years. What do you think? Do you participate in contests? Do you think they are still relevant?

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15 thoughts on “Another take on Just Patterns Stephanie Skirt

  1. Beth (SunnyGal Studio)

    this is fantastic – so beautiful. and your photos are perfect. I really like it with the flat sandals. interesting post with lots to think about.

    • Sewing Tidbits

      Thank you Beth, your dress for the contest is very pretty! I hope I’ll get some time to expand more on those thoughts, as I am very interested in what other sewists think about this!!

  2. Kathy

    I’ve been a member of Pattern Review for awhile but never had the desire to enter contests. I’m not that creative interpreting “themes” for these contests. My sewing project time is limited and adding one more limitation is too much. I agree with you about slowing down. Sometimes with rushing I’ve only made mistakes and ending up taking extra time in fixing them.
    Anyway, I love how your skirt turned out. Your interpretation is spot on with the inspiration photo.

    • Sewing Tidbits

      Thank you kathy for your kind words and your thoughts! I completely agree with you that there is not enough sewing time to put yourself under constraints!! The rtw/bargainista contest is not really a contraint for me because i usually get my inspiration from RTW… And i’m also with you on creative interpretation of themes, definitely not my strong point!!

  3. Nancy Morris

    I hope you see imitation as flattery as I really love your skirt and want to copy it. Will you share which Mood lace you used? Also, is the striped top from a pattern? If so, which one? Thank you in advance.

    • Sewing Tidbits

      Thank you Nancy! Imitation is how I plan my sewing so i have no issues with it. I found the lace in the cotton eyelet section of Mood in New York back in November. I hope it helps!
      The striped top is RTW from a Colombian designer… I’m considering releasing a pattern with a similar vibe!

  4. Alexa

    That skirt is lovely! Beautiful work. I was also curious about the striped top. Did you make that also? I’m really interested in the pattern.

  5. Diana

    Gorgeous skirt Delphine! I love the use of this lace fabric. I thought of joining contests, but what scared me away are time limits and heavy competition. I’m a slow sewer and like to take my time. I admire what you do, it’s so inspiring! You somehow manage it all between being a busy Mom, managing your pattern company, your blog and many other things! I somehow think the popularity of sewing in general is not really big, mostly with people I meet who don’t share my interest! I will say it is very popular across the globe. That’s why I love conversing with you and fellow sewing enthusiasts on the web! Keep up the lovely work Delphine!

  6. Alex

    Loving the skirt! I have recently made a midi skirt and was considering the Stephanie skirt, but ended up going with another pattern, as I wanted more volume. However, I am going to get the bias cami soon, for a silk top. And I have Linda in my sights too :).
    I completely agree with your points on slowing down your sewing and sewing for your life. I have started unpicking to perfect garments much more than my slap-dashing former self. And I have also started fixing and mending older garments instead of making new ones. Looking forward to your slow-sewing project in the future!

  7. Alex

    Oh, and on contests, I realised that a) I don’t have the time to stick to deadlines and b) I end up sewing things that I won’t wear, so it’s a waste of time. So, when I can, I will enter things I am already planning to make or have made recently into challenges and competitions. But I do love Pattern Review, it’s a great community and so useful to see other people’s take on a new pattern.

  8. maryfunt

    I love your version, especially the hem treatment. Underlining just the upper part was a great idea and kept the skirt from looking too heavy. I don’t do contests as I rarely want to make the garments specified and often I have other projects in the works so the time frame can be an issue. I hope you can steal some time for more sewing; totally understandable how limited your free time is.

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